Phulkari which translates into work of flower is beautiful embroidery of Punjab which is also an important part of its culture. This beautiful style of embroidery is patterned on odinis, shawls, kurtis, and chunris. The unique thing about Phulkari is the intricate stitch on the wrong side of cloth with colored silken threads.
Phulkari is the first choice of every Punjabi girl and also this embroidery was mentioned in the tales of romantic protagonists Heer and Ranjha. There are many types involved in this embroidery like chope, Bawan Bagh, Darshan Dwar, Suber, Satrangi, Ghunghat bagh or sari-pallau etc.
History Of Phulkari:
This embroidery was brought to Indian Subcontinent by the Jat people of Central Asia in ancient times. The techniques involved were basically not documented but transmitted by word of mouth. This tradition was associated with Sikh heritage but later was shared with Hindus & Muslims. The popularity comes from 15th century.
The embroidery was a beautiful reflection of a woman’s life and every design drawn shows a beautiful representation of her own life. Phulkari art was an art which offered complete freedom of creativity and motifs. Most of the weavers were the ladies as after completing the daily household activity they used to do the embroidery for their extra earnings.
While the division of India & Pakistan, the embroidery took a backseat. But after some time, this was again in the market with more enthusiasm and become the evergreen style statement. Although with time the demand for Phulkari increases. There are limited credible sources left from where one can purchase a hand-woven Phulkari fabric.
Each and every motif was created in a geometric grid which was a unique technique. Long and short darn stitch was put to clever use for creating horizontal, vertical and diagonal thread work. Inspired by a routine of the artists, flowers, and animals. Earlier embroidery was done only on cotton or khadi but nowadays can be seen on chiffon, Georgette, and crepe.
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